05.03.10 // Napolese Restaurant Review – Indianapolis MONTHLY
We LOVE to celebrate alongside of Wood Stone customers! Below is a review from the Indianapolis MONTHLY that features, Pizzeria Napolese.
The Dish: Hot & Fresh, Indianapolis MONTHLY
Beth A. Clayton
Last Night We Ate At…
Napolese (114 E. 49th St., 925-0765), Martha Hoover’s artisanal pizzeria that opened on Monday, and by the looks of things, most of the Meridian-Kessler neighborhood decided to eat there as well. The wait topped 45 minutes by about 7:30, but one whiff of the garlicky aromas wafting from the 1,200-degree oven told us it would be worth it. Many of the servers are familiar faces from other Patachou and Petite Chou locations, and their ease and efficiency at accommodating hungry throngs showed. Once seated, glasses of Tedeschi Lucchine, a soft red wine, in hand, we decided to take our server’s recommendation and try the wild mushroom ragout with baked pancetta, and in a nod to Café Patachou’s broken-yolk creations, topped with an egg. We have heard that the Meridian-Kessler pie with Italian sausage, aged Provolone, and mushrooms is a favorite, and our server said his personal pick is the Hamaker’s Corner (the M-K with the addition of pepperoni), but we took a chance on the PFG, with pancetta, roasted fingerling potatoes, and gorgonzola. Our curiosity was rewarded. This pizza, served “white” (with olive oil and garlic in place of tomato sauce), balanced the salty crunch of the pancetta with the soft, starchy potatoes, with just a hint of the sharp cheese flavor, all on a thin, soft, foldable crust. We had planned to finish with a little bowl of gelato, but this time when our server suggested the Torte de Nona, a lemony pastry cream between layers of dense, flaky crust and topped with pine nuts and powdered sugar, we took his advice, and are glad we did. We will be sure to come back in a couple of weeks when the stone-hearth entrees, like the cedar-planked salmon and Tuscan-style filet are available as well.